Here are some basic QA on wiring up your electric projector screen controls for easy operation. It includes links to setting your projection screen’s drop levels as well as how to set up a 12 volt trigger to coordinate your screen’s drop and rise with the projector’s power cycle.
*The discussion below is based on actual chat transcripts with the omission of any personal/confidential material to protect the customer’s privacy. An example in this case is to change the contact’s identification name/number to “Customer” or a generic name.
[16:14] Matt: Question about one of your screens ... the vmax 106 xwh2 e24
[16:15] Matt: for the 12v hookup, can I wire up a 3.5mm mono cable setup?
[16:15] Matt: In other words, it looks like the output from the screen is the rj45 to two wires?
[16:16] Johnny: yes you can see a short video of this setup from this link here:
[16:16] Johnny: https://elitescreens.com/elitetube/ZSP-12V_trigger_setup_instructions.mp4
[16:17] Matt: Cool ... I'll have a look :-)
[16:17] Matt: Also the black border at the top is 24"
[16:17] Matt: can I reset it to (say) 16" ?
[16:18] Johnny: Yes, that is the vertical limit switch. Please see link to the instructions on how to set the limit switches on your screen:
[16:18] Johnny: https://elitescreens.com/images/download/material/Service/vmax2_spectrum_limit_adjustments.pdf
[16:18] Johnny: You will be setting the bottom limit adjustment to reduce the top black masking
[16:18] Johnny: Step 1: Before starting the procedure, you will have to lower your screen material until it stops on its own
[16:18] Matt: nice one :)
[16:18] Johnny: Step 2: then insert the Allen wrench key into the bottom key hole and turn it 1-2 full circles clockwise.
[16:19] Johnny: Step 3: after turning the Allen key, you will not see any adjustment being made to the screen. So you will have to raise the material up for about 5 seconds, then press stop, and then bring the screen material back down again. You will then see the material has been stopped at a shorter setting
[16:19] Johnny: Step 4: Next, you would keep repeating this procedure until you reach the required height for your top black masking
[16:19] Matt: just watching that video ... excellent
[16:20] Matt: one more question ... around 1:25 in the video there is an 'eye'
[16:20] Matt: which looks to be an IR eye
[16:20] Matt: ??
[16:20] Johnny: Yes, that is an extended IR eye receiver for hidden or in-ceiling applications.
[16:21] Matt: …and is that part of the screen body already?
[16:22] Matt: I guess my question is, would I need to add an IR dongle into the rj45 port?
[16:23] Matt: ooo ... no :)
[16:23] Matt: just looking at the left end cap and it's there
[16:23] Johnny: That is used if the sensor window will be blocked like in an in-ceiling installation. So you would plug in that IR eye extender to the bottom of the screen
[16:23] Johnny: So you can still use the IR remote
[16:24] Matt: Got it ... so if it's in plain view there there's no need for a dongle?
[16:24] Matt: …since the IR just works built-in?
[16:24] Johnny: Yes that’s correct.
[16:24] Matt: cool :)
[16:25] Matt: Thank you very much for the links and the info
[16:25] Johnny: My pleasure, You’re welcome
[16:25] Johnny: Thank you for your interest in Elite Screens, and hope you have a great day.
[16:25] Matt: ooo .. one final thing
[16:26] Matt: the mounting holes might not line up with the wall studs
[16:27] Matt: so I was thinking of using toggle bolts
[16:27] Matt: all good?
[16:27] Johnny: Certainly, you can use those as well. We also offer screens with sliding brackets to make installation easier.
[16:27] Matt: :thumbsup:
[16:28] Matt: awesome ... thanks again ... looking forward to getting it all hooked up this weekend
[16:28] Matt: thanks again Johnny
[16:28] Matt: Have a good day
[16:28] Johnny: sure your welcome
[16:28] Johnny: Thank you for choosing Elite Screens